This brief introduction will provide you with the basic knowledge you need to place and remove gems from ring settings. You’ll learn what tools are needed, what the basic techniques are and what to watch out for when setting the gems. The table of a stone is its cut flat top. This is also known as the face. The girdle on a stone is that edge that is formed where its top and bottom also known as the pavilion meet.
A ring or pendant that is designed to hold a faceted (cut) gemstone. Make sure your gem is clean. Wiping it with a jeweler’s cloth will remove any particles that may complicate the setting, or could cause damage to the setting. Often, the notches in ring setting prongs will contain some debris or residue. Use the jeweler’s file to clean out all notches, making certain there is nothing there that will impede a clean fitting. If the prongs have no notches, you will have to create them with your file. Make the notches about 1/16th of an inch from the tip of the prong.
Prong Settings Design
Check that the prong setting is properly notched. Most settings come with notches made, and it’s a good idea to work with an already notched setting if you’re a beginner. A notch is a subtle horizontal groove on the inner side of each prong designed to grip the gemstone all the way around at the widest point, known as the girdle.
The notches help keep the gemstone in place. You can attempt to make notches yourself using a metal file. Widen the prongs slightly with the gemstone pliers if needed, and set the stone in between the prongs. Line up the girdle of the stone with the notches and hold the stone in place with tweezers. Gripping the pliers in your other hand, close the prongs tightly around the gemstone to secure it in place.